What is Walter Van Beirendonck Trying to Say?

February 14th, 2012 by Joseph

So if he isn’t being callous (like French fashion magazines as of late), is there a message? If there is one, what is it? I really do like the concepts this clothing conjures up, ones of the perception of race in a non-casual setting. Or, how sometimes, race comes up unfairly in what we conceive as a civilized society. And, oftentimes, when it does, the minority in the situation (whether if you’re of color, or GLBT, etc.) feels pressure to hide their true self to fit in. These ideas intrigue me. Does this mean that if as a non-black person, if has a thought on the subject, he should express it? This all sort of reminds me of the debate about The Help, to be completely honest.

Feminine Influence on the left; Submissive Influence on the right

Looking up his recent fashion archive, he’s explored concepts as varied as masculinity and femininity, color, and sexually suggestive shapes. He’s been heavy into the tribal influence recently, however. In looking at the current collection, I veer back and forth between this idea of Van Beirendonck’s exploration of black/white and racial-symbolism-on-acid-so-we-talk-about-it. About racism perhaps, or just about his collection. The collection, when you subtract the pomp and circumstance, is very well made, interesting menswear. The colors might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but the reason I used the top image in the first place is because I really love that shirt. If I ignore the mask.

The way I’ve been thinking about this collection all week, in sort of a vicious cycle of positivity and negativity leads me to wonder if this is his statement to make. I think I’m leaning toward he can say whatever he want, but anyone can say something back. Van Beirendonck was unavailable for comment, so, we’ll have to figure out the message for ourselves. Truthfully, I think that may be what he wants.

 

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Posted in black, fashion, race & representations | 6 comments

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  • zsazsamcbee

    Also, I don’t think someone who seems to have such a deep affinity for another continent’s culture would be callous toward his muse. The thread that weaves in most of WVB’s clothing is the patterns, hair, and frankly, skin of the African continent.
          —-I also think the above is pretty interesting considering his native country’s history with the African continent and it’s peoples.  Belgium (or Leopold, or the oligarchy) was a pretty heinous example in a fucking depraved industry…

  • http://loveisntenough.com/ Jstevens0124

    Maybe it’s just the size of these photos, but I’m not seeing how these masks are at all African-inspired? To me they look like, as Lila said, a serial killer’s favorite thing–echoes of Hannibal Lecter too, no? Then again, I could also imagine them, especially the purple one, as a part of some particularly off-the-wall Cirque du Soleil production…

  • http://loveisntenough.com/ Jstevens0124

    Maybe it’s just the size of these photos, but I’m not seeing how these masks are at all African-inspired? To me they look like, as Lila said, a serial killer’s favorite thing–echoes of Hannibal Lecter too, no? Then again, I could also imagine them, especially the purple one, as a part of some particularly off-the-wall Cirque du Soleil production…

  • EinSC

    That pretty much sums up my initial reaction

  • Kat

    I just want to say that I really really enjoyed this article. More please, racialicious! Thank you for giving me a lot of food for thought, Joseph.

  • JS

    Yeah, they do have that Jason-mask vibe, but the african thing comes from the nose piercing I think.