More Supermarkets, Please.

by Guest Contributor G.D., originally published at PostBourgie

Up until last fall, I lived in Bed-Stuy, and the only supermarket near me was so far away that I would just do my food-shopping on the way back from my gym — which happens to be in a completely different neighborhood.  The bodegas on either end of the block where I lived only sold white bread; fresh fruit and vegetables were completely out of the question. Fast food restaurants abounded. After 10 p.m., you had to stand outside the bodega and tell the store employee what you wanted through bullet-proof glass; they handed you your goods via a rotating carousel. If you were hungry at that hour — and I usually was, since I work evenings — there was no place to get food, except Papa John’s. (Ugh.)

Then my lease ran out and I stumbled into an apartment for slightly less than I was paying — in Park Slope, that notorious bastion of upper middle class liberalism and helicopter parenting. My mind was blown. It’s just two miles away, but the demographic chasms are ginormous. This is the whitest, most affluent place I’ve ever lived, and the nutritional options border on the cartoonish. There are supermarkets two blocks in every direction, a surfeit of top-shelf restaurantsthe famous Food Co-Op, and the 24-hour bodega on the corner sells fresh herbs and organic kale. As dope this is for me now, I had to move to a completely different neighborhood in order to have regular access to fat-free milk.

The larger public health implications of these kinds of disparities  are obvious. The lack of access to a decent-sized supermarket is a growing problem here in the city, though it’s worse in other places:  there are just four chain supermarkets in all of Newark, New Jersey’s largest city; Detroit, a city with a population of just under a million, doesn’t have any.

When we talk about obesity and the way it correlates is poverty, we spend most of our time talking about pushing low-income consumers into making healthier choices and probably not enough time discussing how we can get food retailers to sell healthy food them in the first place.

Suffice it to say, I’m a big fan of this idea by Mayor Bloomberg.

The Bloomberg administration, in its ever-expanding campaign to make New Yorkers eat better, has already clamped down on trans fats, deployed fruit vendors to produce-poor neighborhoods and prodded corner bodegas to sell leafy green vegetables and low-fat milk.

Now, in a city known more for hot dogs and egg creams than the apple of its nickname, officials want to establish an even bigger beachhead for healthy food — new supermarkets in areas where fresh produce is scarce and where poverty, obesity and diabetes run high.

Under a proposal the City Planning Commission unanimously approved on Wednesday, the city would offer zoning and tax incentives to spur the development of full-service grocery stores that devote a certain amount of space to fresh produce, meats, dairy and other perishables.

The plan — which has broad support among food policy experts, supermarket executives and City Council members, whose approval is needed — would permit developers to construct larger buildings than existing zoning would ordinarily allow, and give tax abatements and exemptions for approved stores in large swaths of northern Manhattan, central Brooklyn and the South Bronx, as well as downtown Jamaica in Queens.

This is just one of the myriad (market-based!) ways that government can improve food options for the poor. A food program in Detroit is trying to set up a system where buyers using food stamps can spend twice as much on food if they purchase it from one of urban farms sprouting up throughout that depopulated city. And the White House is trying to make it easier for people to use food stamps at farmer’s markets. Even  junk food taxes could help, but we can’t just make unhealthy food purchases more onerous. We also have to make good, healthy food much, much more convenient.

(Image via Wikimedia Commons)

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  1. Weekend Link Love « The Feminist Texican on 18 Oct 2009 at 9:03 am

    [...] 18 October, 2009 · Filed under activism, body politics, bullshit advertising, cultural appropriation, feminism, film, food, general government fuckery, general healthcare fuckery, immigration, prison system, racism, rape G.D.: More Supermarkets, Please [...]

Comments

  1. Eva wrote:

    I am so glad for this article. Many years ago I knew this doctor who was angry that the parents of a young patient didn’t follow his advice and feed the child fresh fruit and vegetables. I said, maybe they didn’t have access to fresh produce and he looked at me like I had three heads.

    There are three supermarkets in walking distance near where I live in Harlem, but their choices changed when the neighborhood became whiter.

  2. malted_tea wrote:

    Co-sign on this idea. The only place where I’ve experienced a lack of good vegan food choices, however, is while travelling.

    Google Maps will help find “health food” and “grocery” places but this approach is really shooting in the dark. Easier access – in low income and tourist areas – to good, nutritious food for everyone is important.

  3. wendi muse wrote:

    “When we talk about obesity and the way it correlates is poverty, we spend most of our time talking about pushing low-income consumers into making healthier choices and probably not enough time discussing how we can get food retailers to sell healthy food them in the first place.”

    great point. we often scold and fail to follow up on fixing the problem.

    and on a side note, i love that pic of trader joe’s. i *wish* that just once in my life that i could enter that place and it be that empty. i might sell one of my organs for that privilege. it’s always so crowded there, and even when it’s not, people behave frantically as if it is. i can’t tell you how many grocery basket bruises i have from TJ’s. ::sigh::

  4. jennifer p wrote:

    So true–and worth noting that this is a problem in poor areas of smaller cities and rural areas as well! Even in cities with a profusion of supermarkets, the major chains sometimes charge higher prices for the same items in poor neighborhoods than in wealthy ones, probably because customers in the poor neighborhoods are less likely to comparison shop. The one exception to this that I’ve experienced is Fiesta Mart in Texas, which (at least up until 2002, when I left the state) targeted Latinos but also a variety of other ethnic groups with a both a full range of US groceries and a wide selection of ethnic foods (not just packaged stuff but traditional cuts of meat, fruits and vegetables, cheeses, etc.). A lot of their stores were located in poorer neighborhoods, but their produce quality was always excellent and prices were much better than the major chains around town. I know they’ve gone through some buyouts in the past few years and I don’t know how much that’s changed things, but it’s a good model of a company that had a lot of success with the premise that people in lower-income and immigrant communities wanted high-quality fresh food with all the supermarket amenities suburban customers expect as a matter of course.

  5. Justme wrote:

    Growing up in predominantly west Indian neighborhoods in Bklyn I never thought much about grocery options – until I had a child. I currently live in Crown heights and while the gentrification occuring has opened up the supermarket options the quality of food for the most part is awful. Fruits and vegetables are on the verge of spoiling – healthy foods are almost not existent instead you’ll find mostly junk or processed food. I often have to buy groceries in Park Slope or the Grand Army Plaza market. At least I have the option to do that many dont.

  6. Justme wrote:

    And Park Slope is one of the most pretentious neighborhoods. Some of the people there just need to get jobs doing community work else where.

  7. Jess wrote:

    If you want to talk about food choices, I’d say there’s another issue as well — food policy in the US has been centered for a hundred years on lowering the price of food. Whether what goes into that is really food or not is another question.

    Now, lowering the price of food was a perfectly reasonable thing to do. Mot modern famines are not caused by a lack of supply. Even 1847 Ireland was exporting grains and in Bangladesh in the 70s the problem wasn’t the crop.

    The problem in both places was that food was too expensive for anyone living as a subsistence farmer to afford. A farmer has to make choices, especially when s/he has little land. In a money economy, you have to grow cash crops and if that gets f-ed up you have no other options.

    In the US, this has meant that to avoid that problem, we decided to make sure food was cheap. That meant offering up free land to settlers (whether it was really suited to farming or not), and encouraging volume production. It meant shifting farming from a labor intensive activity to a capital intensive one. (More machinery, fewer hands). We subsidize farmers in order to keep the prices low (and stable) as well. It seems paradoxical, but the whole point is to make sure people keep on farming even if it isn’t really necessary for them to do so.

    Again, this is not a completely unreasonable thing to do.

    But all that reasonable-ness goes out the window when you have the technology available to make stuff that is cheap to eat but not necessarily healthy. It’s cheaper to use salt and sugar in massive amounts to preserve and improve taste. But you can end up with a processed hunk of salt and sugar, which by itself just isn’t enough to work with.

    All this in turn means that the choices for people who can afford less become more limited.

    And the markets that need to sell in volume to make profits — remember the margins for big chains are small — will therefore offer crappy food in poor neighborhoods or not locate there at all.

    I have to say, in Bushwick some of the smaller bodegas do offer fresh fruits, carrying on a rather hoary immigrant tradition (in my ancestors’ day it was potatoes and onions, and “exotic” Jewish foods like gefilte). So the situation can be mitigated if you encourage those kinds of businesses to hang around.

    And while it may sound paradoxical to loosen the policy of keeping food prices low to help poorer people, I would argue that you get more nutritional bang for the buck from a single potato than a box of instant mashed potatoes, even though the latter is cheaper by weight.

  8. Alston Adams wrote:

    Excuse my ignorance, but I am just a Canadian: How do you pronounce “Stuyvesant”?

  9. Cindy wrote:

    Good business is good business. There is no reason why Kroger and other large retailers cannot make a profit in underserved neighborhoods. Develop of a different business model to place smaller space stores with a quality sampling of products is a doable project. It’s a different path from the urban sprawl giant store with a five acre parking lot, but should be a profitable endeavor. It could be linked to a community action model that would be a strong P.R. campaign for the company as well.

    All the arguments of the post are valid and true, but somewhere, somehow the local community and the individual consumer has to find a voice of empowerment to approach the Giant Supermarket Chains. Big corporations need to be SHOWN a different model. If we can get people fired up about their civil rights, shouldn’t we also be able to get them fired up about their basic needs?

    There are opportunities for leadership here.

  10. Sean wrote:

    @ Alston

    STY (rhymes with eye) -ves (rhymes with best) -unt (rhymes with grunt) Known to locals as Bed-Stuy.

    My late, Great Grandmother lived in that neighborhood. I remember when she used to take me grocery shopping with her to the PathMark in Restoration Plaza, she’d always pick up the fruits and kind of skin her nose at the selection. It wasn’t until later years I figured out why Grandma always made that funny face in the produce section.

  11. queerhapa wrote:

    Love this article. I fortunately live near a Chinatown with lots of produce, but I’d rather buy non-processed food and locally-grown organic veggies for cheap, so instead I travel a couple subway stops away to shop at the co-op in Park Slope. And then feel guilty about not supporting my neighborhood stores… If only PS-style groceries were available for all, throughout the city! The disparity is awful.

    And Alston, it’s pronounced like STEYE-ves-ant. Wanna know how to pronounce Schermerhorn? ;)

  12. G.D. wrote:

    Alston: “Sty (like “eye” or “pie”)-Ves-Int.”

  13. Ay-leen wrote:

    Thanks for this article–I know grocery shopping has been a concern whenever I’ve move in NYC (and I’ve moved quite a few times!) Right now, I’m lucky enough to be within a walking distance to a Pathmark where I’m at, but I remember looking in more upscale neighborhoods and cringing at the prices, and then looking at more affordable neighborhoods and then cringing at the produce quality! It’s so hard to find a balance…

  14. foshothoyo wrote:

    @alston: sty-vess-ant

    can I just say that C-Town just doesn’t cut it?

    when i lived in bed stuy i would have to take the bus to C-town and it was awful each and every time.

    it is the used car lot of grocery stores. Why aren’t there better regulations for quality, distribution of food centers, and sanitation? Or better yet, if they exist, why aren’t they enforced?

    We need more rooftop gardening, in my opinion. That’s the best way to get your own produce in the city for price and flavor.

  15. Kara wrote:

    I live in Bed-Stuy currently and there are a couple of health food stores near the A train stop as well as a nice Foodtown with a great produce and organic food section only about 12 minutes away from my home walking. The grocery store closest to me at the end of the block, Key Foods, is DISGUSTING. And it smells in there. I only go there if I need something packaged because the fruits and veggies look horrible. I normally just buy non-food items there like laundry detergent. When my friend lived in Park Slope, I went to her Key Foods with her and the difference was like night and day. That being said, I have been ordering from the food delivery service Fresh Direct pretty consistently. It’s just more convenient then lugging bags full of groceries home or taking a car service. I have noticed in the past couple of months there have been fresh fruit carts all over the neighborhood, which is nice. And all of the greenmarkets in NYC accept the EBT card which makes access to good quality food equal for all. My husband’s friend also has a fresh fruit and vegetable co-op because he wanted to feed black families and promote healthy choices. They go down to the docks at 3am twice a month and purchase fruit and veggies direct from the supplier. Then the individual or family gets a HUGE box of fruits and veggies for 30 bucks. We have gotten it once and it was great and definitely a lot lower in price than buying from the supermarket. Also, during the summer Bed-Stuy has CSA farm shares for sale which is also a great option. The share cost is based on annual family income. All in all, as a Bed-Stuy resident, I feel that I have access to a variety of fresh and healthy food options. Just not great restaurants… We usually order delivery from Clinton Hill or I bring home a vegetarian spelt crust pizza from the East Village, LOL.

  16. Alston Adams wrote:

    Thanks for the pronunciation help!

    @Cindy: I am guessing that the major grocery stores do not want to deal with the perceived and actual threats of crime in these neighbourhoods. There would likely be a branding issue if Kroger’s were the victim of crime more than once. That could partly explain why they might be reluctant to engage in these neighbourhoods like Bed-Stuy. That said, the opportunity to do a huge public service is there if there is an organized and committed community organization that would work with the supermarket chain(s). I like the idea.

  17. AMarie wrote:

    Co-Sign this… I live in Berkeley where there is maybe 1 grocery store per square mile- and there are 4 within a mile of where I live. In one 3-block stretch, I counted 6 stores that sell fresh organic produce.

    By contrast, in West Oakland, where I teach kids, there are no grocery stores that sell fresh produces, but 53 liquor stores and several warehouse- type stores that sell canned goods and other non-perishables. The option of fresh produce… isn’t really an option.

    I touched on it in my blog here:
    http://aconerlycoleman.wordpress.com/2009/07/21/why-do-you-talk-about-race-so-much/

    But yes, the narrative of poverty and obesity is much like the narrative on depression- “work a little harder… don’t be so lazy… pull those bootstraps! It takes willpower!” It also takes help, advocacy. People cannot change their environments in and of themselves. There is a clear need for healthful, affordable food- not this manufactured, cheap junk that has been the staple diet of the poor/working class.

  18. Phrone wrote:

    Yeah, when I was working in Detroit and wanted to buy some food, the only thing there was one grocery store that would charge you like $2 for one apple.

    Detroit has an AMAZING farmer’s market, I hope the city introduces a way for food stamps to be used there. That would definitely help out a lot.

  19. Reiter wrote:

    Having joined the military for the past few years, I think I’ve been spoiled by the commissaries on base. The selections are great for the most part, good quality produce, name and lesser known brands, and even sections devoted to ethnic foods where stuff like Latino, East and Southeast Asian ingredients can be had. And the prices are low and sales happen often.

    Every time I go back to Coney Island, Brooklyn to visit home, I’m shocked by the higher prices and often crappy quality of the supermarket food near my old stomping grounds, though it has been improving a lot lately.

    I remember when there wasn’t even a supermarket around that area, just little bodegas that didn’t offer much in the way of produce or fresh groceries. Now there’s a PathMark and a Fine Fair (used to be Pioneer), at least. The prices still get me though. Like I said, I’ve been spoiled.

  20. MJ wrote:

    Great article..and hits home. In my social work studies I decided that I would create a social enterprise to address this very issue after living in East New York. Like Bed-Stuy, produce options are HORRIBLE. Bodegas sell mostly packaged foods and practically no produce. You’d need a car to reasonably shop at the neighborhood Pathmark and Target. I had to do most of my shopping in B’klyn’s organic markets as opposed to my neighborhood unfortunately, and like the other poster, usually on my way from the city after running some errand or another.

    Love that TJ anecdote. I loved that Cobble Hill TJ for their tulips, among the wonderful selection of TJ goodies of course. But it was indeed always busy. The one Sunday it was closed, I believe for a holiday, it was as if the world collapsed for some people. You just saw a steady stream of sad faces emerging from the closed entrance looking lost and confused.

  21. Sean wrote:

    “The larger public health implications of these kinds of disparities are obvious. The lack of access to a decent-sized supermarket is a growing problem here in the city, though it’s worse in other places: there are just four chain supermarkets in all of Newark, New Jersey’s largest city; Detroit, a city with a population of just under a million, doesn’t have any.”

    I don’t know if it’s been mentioned yet, but it’s more than a little ironic that fresh produce and whole foods are as hard to come by in these same neighborhoods, as liquor stores are readily available.

    Coincidence? Makes you wonder…

  22. SeattleSlim wrote:

    This is unfathomable to me. I cannot imagine what I would do. I’ll never b*tch again about the 15 to 20 minute drive to Sam’s Club or Safeway. Matter of fact, I have so many supermarket choices where I live, that it’s not even funny. I have definitely taken that for granted.

    I remember the long azz drive to PathMark with my grand-aunt and grandmother whenever we were up visiting from Panama. I thought it was just them being picky. I see now that nothing has changed.

    It is unacceptable that the residents of these areas are left out of the loop. These people are the ones who are suffering from poor diet and the effects are long term, and deadly.

    The only way to solve this is having residents and organizers raise hell and get a grocery store out there.

  23. Olivia wrote:

    That’s great news. Recently, my state has collaborated with farmer’s markets to accept WIC checks and next month checks will have vegetables and whole wheat breads on them.

  24. Ferdinand Cesarano wrote:

    I have to say that I am surprised by the lack of fruits and vegetables in the delis and bodegas of Bed-Stuy.

    I am a lifelong New Yorker, and I have lived the last 20 years right on the Brooklyn-Queens border, in Woodhaven, Queens.

    (Necessary aside: I am a white-appearing ethnic Italian. I do not identify as “white”, because “white” identity entails nothing but a claim to superiority. This is precisely the reason that Italians, who were not considered “white” 100 years ago, sought — and attained — this status. Still, while I am secure in the knowledge that I am not “white” (a designation which in my view can properly be applied only to the ethnicities of northern Europe, but never to those of the Mediterranean), I am aware that others see me as “white”, and that I therefore benefit from white privilege.)

    In my experience, fruits and vegetables are usually available at these delis — both in Woodhaven (about 60% white), and in Cypress Hills (about 60% black), the Brooklyn neighbourhood which borders Woodhaven.

    But clearly this isn’t so in Bed-Stuy, which is also pretty near to where I live — it is, roughly, as far away from Woodhaven as it is from Park Slope. Even still, the call for “more supermarkets” as a remedy strikes me as a call for replacing one problem with a different problem.

    In my view, supermarkets are a negative to any urban neigbourhood. They typically use as much ground for parking as they do for the footprint of the store itself. And, of course, they attract to this gigantic parking lot the most obscenely large and most polluting vehicles.

    Furthermore, the customer experience inside one of these places tends to be deplorable, ranging from merely headache-producing to just shy of de-humanising. In these places one finds assaults on the ears by loud music and louder announcements; assaults on the eyes by lights that are at least twice as bright as necessary; and assaults on the knees by oblivious phone-yappers who are wielding carts that are stacked eye-high. And then, after all that fun, you get to wait a half hour to check out.

    The deli/bodega, by contrast, exists on a scale more appropriate to an urban street. It is approached by walking, and people buy what they can carry in their arms. You can typically go in and out of a bodega in less time than it takes merely to wait on line in a supermarket.

    The deli/bodega fits better than the supermarket into the urban lifestyle. An urban dweller will pass the local deli every day, just in normal travels, such as on the way to and from the subway or bus stop. So this person will tend to pop in to the deli very frequently, perhaps even daily, without ever having to make a special trip there.

    Whereas the supermarket involves a special trip every couple of weeks — by car, of course — to buy as much as can be wedged into the vehicle.

    It seems to me that the supermarket is really not at all compatible with a walkable urban environment; and that it fits best way out in SUV-infested suburbia, alongside all the other monuments to consumption-as-disease.

    So, when calling for some remedy to the problem of the lack of good foods in the local bodegas, it seems that it would make more sense to call simply for those existing stores to stock better food, rather than to call for the introduction of supermarkets, which harm the urban character of a city neighborhood, and which could easily become engines for gentrification.

  25. ashlynn wrote:

    Great article.

    When I first went to school in Park Slope, I was shocked at how many food options there were. I mean, the freaking Key Food has a mini winery section! Seriously? Though there are a few supermarkets in my area- Associated, Key Food(two), Food Bazaar and People’s Choice, the quality of product is definitely poor. I am very wary of buying fresh food from them- in fact, in my home we have to drive over to the closest Walbaums, about a half hour drive away, to get fresh produce. Recently, a store called “Trader Wise” opened up in our area, which touts fresh, organic products(we’ll see). As I mentioned in a recent post, healthy food can be far more expensive than the current options we consume. It’s not easy for a family living on food stamps to find a steady, reliable source of quality fresh foods in the first place, let alone afford it and possibly have to travel to it. I’m sick of the naysayers who claim that there’s no “market” for healthy food in low-income communities. Eating healthy should NOT be a luxury, it’s not something that should have to be designed to sell to someone. Economists and environmentalists alike need to stop preaching from behind their blogs and get their hands dirty with the solutions they throw at us. The city needs to not subsidize failing venues like OTB and put its money and time behind far more substantial issues like this one.

    NOT TO EVEN MENTION, that there could be soo many places in low income neighborhoods that could offer fresh food in but a year’s time: COMMUNITY GARDENS! Oh but wait- the government keeps shutting them down and turning them into dumping grounds for waste from shoddy construction projects that go up in a year, cost 300k, and then fall apart a year later! Just saying!

  26. Sean wrote:

    @ Seattle Slim

    My Great-Grandmother up through my mom were all Panamanian born and raised. If I heard a story about how they used to climb the trees out in the country and pick their own mangos, lemons, etc, I heard them a billion times.
    My mom used to embarass me something fierce when we were in the supermarkets/bodegas by (understandably) shouting her disgust out loud. My Grandma used to screw up her face so bad, I thought James Brown and Maceo took it to the bridge. LOL!

  27. G.D. wrote:

    Ferdinand: Huh? of the many supermarkets in walking distance in my new neighborhood, only one has a parking lot, because most New Yorkers don’t drive.

    And the whole problem with bodegas is their scale; were they to provide healthier food choices, they couldn’t provide enough of them.

  28. distance88 wrote:

    Hear, hear. Public health and environmental disparities such as these need loads of more attention from govt.

    I had a hard time recognizing the picture as TJ’s because I’ve never seen one so dead. It is worth all the bumps and bruises tho.

  29. Sara in Detroit wrote:

    The Eastern Market farmer’s market (biggest farmer’s market in Detroit) is accepting WIC/EBT nowadays. Woo!

  30. em wrote:

    thank you. i couldn’t agree more with this article. back when i taught for nyc public schools, this was something that came up a lot in conversation with colleagues. access to healthy, nutritious food and fresh fruits and vegetables is vital for so many kinds of health.

  31. G.K. wrote:

    Detroit dosen’t have any big chain supermarkets, but there are Save-A-Lots (A low cost local supermarket chain,I think)throughout the city. In Highland Park (a smaller economically devastated city within the D) on the corner of Clairmont and Woodward Avenue, there’s a market called King’s which has a deli that sells fresh seafood, and it also sells fresh friuts and nutritious stuff (at least they did a couple of years back when I last went there) Then there’s a supermarket near Wayne State University with decent prices for students/everyone else that sells sushi, fresh fruits, and juices you can’t find nowhere else, and all kinds of interesting foriegn foods for Wayne’s diverse student body.

    Also, some good recent news: Meyers is actually about to open up a supermarket near the Michigan State Fairgrounds–that means some jobs heading our way for a lot of unemployed folks! Highland Park also has another low-cost store (I forgot the name, but they have their own patented brand of beautiful bags to carry your groceries in) that sells foods you normally see in the suburban areas—good stuff.

  32. G.K. wrote:

    Plus, there are a number of community gardens that have sprung up around the WSU area—the urban farming thing has taken off to some degree, but it mostly seems to be confined around there.

  33. Ladyfresh wrote:

    lol G.D. Ferdinand didn’t realize that although he borders bklyn he was clearly speaking as a queens resident with the reference to parking lots and cars.

    I’m also a lifelong border (bushwick/ridgewood) resident and family members that have cars it opens up a whole new perspective on accessible grocery shopping alas though such is a rarity for me and noted that like ashlynn i also have a food bazaar and a food dynasty within a block or two of the trains which in the past 10 years have hours until 10 or 12 respectively, things have definitely improved with gentrification.

    please note Ferdinand that both supermarkets have parking lots but i’d say a majority of customers live locally, use shopping carts and do not drive

  34. Shauna wrote:

    I think these types of tax incentives might lead to lots of chain supermarkets, rather than smaller groceries that provide fresh fruits and vegetables. Not that this isn’t an acceptable trade-off, but the potential loss of locally-owned, small-business should be considered.

  35. little mixed girl wrote:

    It’s shameful that Detroit doesn’t even have a Meijers. I mean, Meijer is a Michigan store, they could at least build one store in Detroit. heck, it doesn’t even have to be big.

    I appreciate that people are invested in helping the poor get access to healthy foods, but how many times do I have to see “organic” as if organic food is the cure to cancer?

    Ann Arbor, which totally does not want to be associated with Detroit, has organic markets, farmers markets and LACK of fast food places up the wazoo.
    And as a poor somewhat citizen, I can tell you that having those things available has not made my life any better.

    What I’ve got are a bunch of supermarkets with overpriced food that I can’t afford.
    Even if I have food stamps, I’m still effed.
    From what I remember of them, they come in dominations like bills of $10~$50?

    So, it’s nice that you guys like organic food (and I really have nothing against it, except the price), but if you are truly interested in helping the poor, you would be trying to get them access to quality low cost foods.

    I’m sure that Meijer or Krogers would use that “we might get robbed” excuse, but I call BS.
    Heck, make a smaller version of Meijers…call it “Meijers Lite”, people will go. Especially if it’s Meijers, cuz their stuff is cheap (and good).

    Disagree with taxing “junk” food, too.
    We’ve taxed the fast food, we still have no grocery stores in the cities that lack them, and what are the citizens supposed to do now? Starve?
    A tax is quicker to put into action than building a store, apparently…No matter how backwards that seems.

  36. WriteHer wrote:

    I grew up in California, so my first food shock upon moving to NYC were how much higher the prices were for lower quality, less fresh produce.

    When I attended Columbia, living in an apartment north of 120th, I hit another shock. I’d shopped mostly at West Side Market, but when it was torn down, I started going to Harlem, as it was close anyway. It was great for staples, but the selection of fruit and fresh fish was far more limited than what I’d come to take for granted at West Side.

    I’m just thankful someone told me about Fairway. I’d thought it was a pricey gourmet store, based on people I know who frequented the UWS store. It was a bit of a schlep and I thought it was at least twice as far as it turned out to be. The selection of fresh, healthy fish and produce was wonderful. Still, I can’t imagine busy, working parents making that trip every week.

  37. WriteHer wrote:

    I grew up in California, so my first food shock upon moving to NYC were how much higher the prices were for lower quality, less fresh produce.

    When I attended Columbia, living in an apartment north of 120th, I hit another shock. I’d shopped mostly at West Side Market, but when it was torn down, I started going to Harlem, as it was close anyway. It was great for staples, but the selection of fruit and fresh fish was far more limited than what I’d come to take for granted at West Side.

    It was incredibly clear to me that this applied only to the stores near 125th and therefore closer to Harlem than to the university. There was much more variety further south on Broadway.

    I’m just thankful someone told me about Fairway. I’d thought it was a pricey gourmet store, based on people I know who frequented the UWS store. It was a bit of a schlep and I thought it was at least twice as far as it turned out to be. The selection of fresh, healthy fish and produce was wonderful. Still, I can’t imagine busy, working parents making that trip every week.

  38. Jess wrote:

    @little mixed girl/et al

    Be aware that one reason the big chains don’t locate in cities anymore is the space issue. Recently here in New York we had a huge problem with Wal Mart wanting to locate in Harlem. Basically Wal Mart wanted to raze a chunk of real estate and duplicate the look and feel of a Wal Mart in an area that is not New York City, and to my mind Wal Mart showed no sensitivity to elementary things like the fact that most New Yorkers (as was pointed out) don’t drive.

    Why would Wal Mart do such a thing? Not because they are evil Darth Vaders (though I think they are :-) ) but because that kind of store design is profitable. It depends on low cost of land and selling in volume.

    A supermarket’s margins are not that big. The reason Whole Foods exists the way it does is because the old models weren’t working, so the idea was to have a “supermarket” that sold higher-margin stuff. Liquor, for instance, (wine in some cases) has profit margins that are much higher than selling apples. Margins on most of the stuff you are likely to eat are on the order of 10% or less.

    In many cities, taxes are relatively high, as are wages, and there are added costs of security — while crime isn’t the issue it was there are guards in the Western Beef and Pioneer — and this is on the Upper West Side.

    So that is a gigantic disincentive to locate in those neighborhoods, especially if you are doing the volume business model. And if you don’t need to be there — Wal Mart sure as hell doesn’t need Harlem– then you say “screw it.”

    You have to make sure you get the difference between the costs of food, which even for organic produce are not all that high, and the price of food, which may bear little relation to that — see the current issues over milk, for instance. (There is a huge battle going on over subsidies, production levels, and pricing).

    No love for the Fairway in Harlem, by the way? :-)

  39. little mixed girl wrote:

    @ jess.

    i figured that size was also coming into play.
    both krogers and meijer are large and meijers is even more standardly large.

    i just kinda felt like things were moving towards whether poor people had access to quality organic food rather than quality food.

    what i think would work in a big city is what i’ve seen in japan and korea where the basement of a department store is turned into a grocery store.
    it’s not huge, but they can hold a lot.

  40. Donald wrote:

    I don’t know how different the US is from the UK but here supermarkets are not a good source for fresh food. Their produce is generally pricy, overpackaged and often poor quality. It’s cheaper to buy frozen vegetables than fresh but then you need a freezer to keep them in.

    The fact that market traders can undercut the supermarkets by up to 50% tells me that the supermarkets aren’t working on a margin as low as 10%.

    I expect the reason shops in poor areas don’t carry fresh produce is that there isn’t a big enough market for them. They need a steady turnover of stock or they lose more to spoilage than they sell. Nor can you expect a local shopkeeper to have the advertising budget to educate their customers that it’s better and cheaper to buy the components of a meal than some highly advertised junk food.

  41. thebiblophile wrote:

    Anyone read Doris Wit’s book Black Hunger? She talks a lot about food choices and the mythology of food and its intersection with race and class….

    And playwright Christina Anderson has a play about environmental racism that made me think a lot about what we put into our bodies…

    http://www.christinaranderson.com/

  42. PatrickInBeijing wrote:

    Good article and good points. I worked in the supermarket industry once (about 30 years ago). Many of the basic foods are very low to no-profit. The markets make their money selling the extras, which are high profit (milk, often sold at a loss, premium ice cream, big profit).

    Since poor people don’t have the excess money, supermarkets can’t make the high profits off them that they can make off the middle class. NOTE, I am not saying they can’t make ANY profits, just not what they consider SUFFICIENT. In other words, if they build a new market in the burbs, the rate of return on investment is MUCH MUCH higher. And that’s what it’s all about.

    (If they were socially conscious, or, umm, pressured, say, they might build anyway, it’s not like they have to lose money, just accept a lower profit.)

    The giant stores are a mixed blessing, they kill every other retailer for miles around. But WalMarts is not going away, they should at least be required to (encouraged to) build in inner cities (fifteen years ago, I would not have said this, but reality has changed).

    We have basement supermarkets in China too, but we also have people selling fresh fruits and vegetables every few feet on the street, and tons of smaller sellers everywhere, plus huge open air markets. Most folks don’t eat much processed (canned or frozen) food, there is lots that is fresh and cheap everywhere!!! (or you can go to Walmarts and pay more!).

  43. Jess wrote:

    @Donald –

    Make sure you understand what margin means — margins (in finance speak) is net profit as a percentage of revenue.

    So, if I sell fresh veggies for $100, and my costs (including taxes) are $80, then my net income is $20 and my margin is 20%.

    If my costs are much lower than $80, then yes I can sell the vegetables for much less. But remember — the cost of maintaining a cart (with no other employees) is a lot less than maintaining a whole store.

    So this number — profit margin — actually tends to get smaller as some businesses get larger. Supermarket chains in particular operate at small margins because they basically compete on price. I might add, a small profit margin doesn’t mean that a business is doing more or les well, necessarily.

    So why no fresh veggies? In the UK, I’d wager some of it is cultural — that is, supermarkets never really caught on to the idea of selling fresh produce in the first place. I lived there for a while and noticed that unlike in the US, there is still such a thing as a local butcher, for instance (I had a favorite one in Brixton, where I lived). In Europe generally, there’s been a bigger commitment to smaller businesses, and a whole other set of constraints. That’s why there’s no European equivalent of Wal-Mart.

    In the US, the move towards the supermarket that displaced the small stores really started back in the 50s. (The term dates from that period). It was based on lots of people driving and living in suburban settings. You can see how that would do a lot of damage to small stores as city centers emptied out.

  44. Jack wrote:

    I live in a working class area of Glasgow, Scotland, and we have the same problem, it’s a fair old walk to get a loaf of brown bread.

    Others have already made the point about how food policy choices get taken at the top (government/corporate level) that affect the food available much more than individual choice. To me, the obesity crisis is a classic example of how massive social problems are loaded on to the individual to solve, rather than tackling the really powerful people who should take more responsibility.

    A great treatment of the food policy in the US is the documentary King Corn (http://www.kingcorn.net/) it’s well worth checking out.

    Personally, I think we should all take a leaf out of Venezuela’s book: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mission_Mercal

  45. dejamorgana wrote:

    I think we need to be very careful how much support we throw behind this kind of program, even if it means we don’t have access to fat-free milk.

    Some alternatives were mentioned in the beginning of the post (fruit vendors, incentives for bodega owners to provide healthy foods, farmers’ markets) and G.D. mentions an upscale, 24-hour bodega that does sell fresh fruits and organic kale. It’s not impossible to make it worth while for small market owners to sell fresh produce and natural foods, and I think cities ought to focus on that sort of program rather than giving supermarket chains tax breaks and incentives to open in urban areas.

    I seriously think one of the reasons the city council and other power brokers approve of this plan is that they know big-box stores will help “gentrify” (in other words, whitewash) the neighborhoods they invade. They will completely destroy the profitability of all the bodegas and mini-marts that cater to immigrant communities and diverse non-white populations, make it harder for the same people to accumulate wealth, and in the long run they will help to make these people move to other areas. This is a winning move for the city; not such a great thing for the people being displaced.

    For five or six years I lived in Jersey City with a bunch of other Israelis, in a neighborhood where the majority of residents were first- or second-gen immigrants. There was only one supermarket (a C-Town) within walking distance, and of course none of us had cars. We’d go there once in a while, but most of the time we bought food at the smaller shops in the area. In bodegas and minimarkets in our neighborhood we actually could find fresh produce, and also all the fixings for the traditional Middle Eastern food we craved, as well as Vietnamese, Phillipine, Indian, Mexican and a wide range of South American and Eastern European foods. Most of these shops were family owned and operated, and I suspect that not all of their workers were 100% legal. Sometimes the selection was crappy, and most of these stores didn’t feel very upscale (because they weren’t). But they supported their communities by providing jobs and traditional foods, and we knew that money we spent there would stay in the neighborhood.

    When the neighborhood started to gentrify, half of these stores and a lot of the restaurants closed down. Every time I go back there I see another shiny new chain store, and fewer of the old residents. There weren’t any new supermarkets involved in the gentrification, but I believe that a nice, big Trader Joe’s, Whole Foods or Ultra Mega Hyper Wal-Mart would have made the process happen that much quicker.

    I live in New Haven now, and there are NO bodegas in my area. Our local shopping options consist of a Super Wal-Mart that I can walk to, or an A&P a short drive away. Now we can get fat-free milk and oranges and apples all year long! Hooray for convenience! But we also pay twice as much for corn tortillas as we used to, and the closest I can get to traditional Middle Eastern food is a nasty bunch of practically tasteless stuffed grape leaves and maybe a tub of “hummus” which is so unlike the real thing you might as well call it peanut butter. 99 cents out of every dollar we spend there goes out of state to Wal-Mart or A&P’s stockholders, and I’m helping to support a system that pays its workers the bare minimum and treats them like disposable robots.

    I’ve probably made the whole Jersey City bodega experience sound better than it was (I do remember produce that wasn’t so fresh, and a whole lot of boxes of Kraft mac-and-cheese), but I really think these small businesses ought to be protected, and encouraged to provide better selections, instead of inviting the Wal-Marts into our neighborhoods.

  46. Mrs._Lioness wrote:

    Thank you for this article – it really spoke to me. My husband and I live in Harlem with our two small children and always bemoan the fact that as condos and banks seem to go up by the dozens we have watched more than one grocery store close. They weren’t great grocery stores, but at least we could buy a few (sometimes wilted) vegetables for dinner if we made the dire mistake of forgetting something during our weekly trip to the grocery store that is over a 1/2 mile away.

    And as you so succinctly stated far too often policy makers focus on telling people what not to eat, rather than making real healthy food choices available.

  47. Jess wrote:

    I was recently discussing this issue with a friend of mine since we both live in predominantly minority neighborhoods in DC and we noticed that the quality of produce and general amount of choices of products within the store was very differered from a grocery store in an affluent neighborhood to one that was not, even within the same chain of stores.

  48. Rosa wrote:

    The German chain Aldi has built 2 stores in lower-income neighborhoods here in Minneapolis – one in a development in Phillips where a grocery had already failed. They seem to have figured out how to make money on a smaller, more urban store, and they focus on healthier food and their own brands – and they’re 10-30% cheaper than other grocery stores around here, sometimes on the exact same brand/item.

    They’re going after Wal-Mart’s market share right now and a quick Google News search shows me they’re building a store in Queens. Maybe they need some encouragement to come into other underserved neighborhoods?

  49. Nell wrote:

    This is a HUGE issue on the East End of Charleston, WV where I worked over the summer for Summer of Service Institute (a stimulus program).

    There are plenty of Go-Marts and fast food shops but you must go outside the city or to the far West Side to shop for Groceries. If you don’t have a car your options are even more limited.

    Granted, compared to Chicago, if you have a car, nothing seems far away for me, but if you don’t have a car it is impossible. The food prices here are much higher as well because everything is shipped into the state.

  50. Kisha wrote:

    I agree, after reading in the local paper that WIC has changed their guidelines and will be adding more fresh fruit and changing what kinds of juice I was very happy. It’s not just a matter of telling people what to eat but also making it easier for them to get those foods.