The Trials of Lola

by Guest Contributor G.D., originally published at PostBourgie

Ever since Lola* — one of those eateries that attracts impeccably dressed, upwardly mobile young Negroes — moved from Chelsea to SoHo, it’s been fighting with the neighborhood alliance over its petition for a license for liquor and the right to have live entertainment.

The Patrick-Odeens, the mixed-race couple that runs the spot, said that the opposition from the neighborhood group bears the scent of racism. The SoHo Alliance says that race has nothing to do with their stance: it’s just that the restaurant attracts the wrong type of crowd.

From the Village Voice:

First [the liquor license petition] was annulled by a state court, then the annulment was overturned by an appellate court. But the Soho Alliance is opposing that reinstatement, and because Lola is opening within 500 feet of three or more other license holders, a state law requires the SLA to consider input from the community board and others in the area—like the alliance.

Doesn’t sound so bad until you hear some of the alliance’s rationale. A money quote:

“I don’t think you need a martini to go with chitlins and collard greens. What wine goes with jambalaya? I can’t think of one,” [SoHo Alliance director Sean Sweeney said], ridiculing Lola’s need for a license.

From the Villager:

A few days later, fliers were posted in doorways throughout Soho asking residents to come to C.B. 2’s full board meeting to “Say No to Lola.” The fliers called the restaurant a threat to the neighborhood, claiming it would increase crime because Lola featured rhythm-and-blues music.

Another money quote from the Voice:

The two also say that Sweeney has been particularly vocal at public hearings about Lola, and they suspect that he was behind an effort to paper the neighborhood with anti-Lola screeds. Flyers appeared around Soho warning that Lola’s r&b music would bring “unruly crowds” and “more crime” to the neighborhood. The Patrick-Odeens saw this as a racist attack, but Sweeney denies that he had anything to do with the flyers.

And he’s not shy about firing back at the couple.

“I am not racist. [Gayle Patrick-Odeen] is from Barbados. She’s a British subject; she’s not African-American. She didn’t suffer Jim Crow, Reconstruction, lynching. . . . For her to exploit the true sufferings of African-Americans is disgraceful,” says Sweeney.

Um. What?

The fate of the restaurant is still up in the air; it’s pretty hard to draw the after-work crowd without booze. But a few weeks back, some folk (including Gardy, one of our regular commenters) put together big “Save Lola’s” dinner party over the course of two evenings.

*’No More Drama’? Nice.

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Trackbacks & Pings

  1. Collard Greens Doesn’t go with Cocktails « Reading While Black on 08 Jun 2008 at 12:01 pm

    [...] 8, 2008 I had to laugh my ass off when I visited racialicious to discover the story of an upscale soul food restaurants battle for a liquor [...]

Comments

  1. Liza wrote:

    *Gasp* … Reading this at 7:30am as I’m taking my first few sips of coffee. At first I thought “The Trials of Lola” was talking about my Filipina grandmother (”Lola” is a commonly used term for grandmother in the Philippines). But, alas, it certainly wasn’t that loving. Sweeney’s responses are filled with all the stuff we anti-racists just shake our heads at. My personal favorite is “I’m not a racist…”.

    “Um. What?”… Sums it up just about right, GD.

  2. Molly wrote:

    Jesus. Chitlins and collard greens? Well, sir, if the owner’s from Barbados and doesn’t get to claim any Jim Crow “street cred” with you—why do you think she’s serving jambalaya? Oh, right, because you’re a racist and a logic-free zone.

  3. atlasien wrote:

    This is very low on the list of the many, many reasons why Sweeney is a horrible person… but as a Southerner, I find his anti-collard greens and jambalaya stance to be highly offensive. These are noble foods that deserve respect.

  4. Celeste wrote:

    Whoa, I’ve never lived in NY. I’ve heard that it can be racist but I’m still shocked. So you really can just blatantly draw a straight line between AA food/music and crime. You can just come righ tout and say it, huh? Well, as Ken mentioned, maybe Clayton Bixby was correct. Just let it out.

  5. Karen-- wrote:

    Wow. That’s all I can say for now.

  6. Slush wrote:

    Dude. Ick.
    Nice reporting though. The thing about stories like this is how ubiquitous they actually are. This one is such a perfect example.

  7. Joan Flores wrote:

    How wrong can he be? I mean, any wine goes with jambalaya for me.

  8. Mary wrote:

    Sweeney is a piece of work. Ms. Patrick-Odeen is not “exploiting the true suffering of African Americans,” she’s reacting to YOUR RACIST CRAP. Idiot.

    ” as a Southerner, I find his anti-collard greens and jambalaya stance to be highly offensive. These are noble foods that deserve respect.”

    Ha… as a North Carolinian I admit the same thing went through my head. What person in their right mind impedes a soul food restaurant? Does. Not. Compute.

  9. gatamala wrote:

    Sean Sweeney…I bet J. Worthington Smith IV of Park Ave & E. Hampton would think the same about you.

    atlasien~as another Southerner I hope that folks NOW realize that the South is NOT the only bastion of old-school racism. I do not believe that this would be an issue in our area (granted when you go to soul food spots in ATL you see 2 types, upwardly mobile black folks and old white folks-Sylvias).

    Considering how terrible iced tea is in NY, they really NEED the martinis.

    I wonder what kind of thug ass crowd wants to feast on : Caribbean quail or Black lacqeured duckling (w/ poached pair in a sour cherry wine sauce)

    This guy needs to be called out and taken on hard.

  10. Joanna wrote:

    Thanks for this post. This place is right near my office!

    Another thing to note is that Lola is a pretty expensive restaurant – $25 per entree. That makes this whole controversy even more “Um. What?”

  11. Tasha wrote:

    it still sticks in the craw GD.

    Joanna – i had no designs on going frankly being the low budget eater that i am, but now they made it a point for me and my friend to support and eat a meal there

    Gatamala – I hope that folks NOW realize that the South is NOT the only bastion of old-school racism. it never was, ‘northern’ racism is simply of a different ilk the red tape, nuanced (ha! not so nuanced in this case) variety. Distasteful to mention, eager to act out and flat out denial if confronted.

  12. Persia wrote:

    I’m a white Northerner and even I am offended on behalf of collard greens and jambalaya. How can these people look at themselves in the mirror?

  13. NancyP wrote:

    Don’t diss Jamaican and Cajun cooking, NoooYawwkers!

    What wine goes with troll stew?

  14. L-K wrote:

    I wrote about this situation about a month ago. A few times, I’ve seen that a person/people has found my blog searching for “sean sweeney” + “racist.” God/dess/es, I hope it was him.

  15. holls wrote:

    I recommend Sauvignon blanc.

  16. KJTaurus wrote:

    I am so disappointed. I have been to Lola and I had no idea this was going on to the owners and disappointed that this is going on in SoHo. First of all, this restaurant is quite posh and impressive. And when I last went, it was PACKED with a very diverse demographic. And as for the “type of crowd” – well, I’m a ‘Wall Street’ person that went with another professional collegue – didn’t realize we were the wrong crowd. This Sweeney guy is a fool. But for some appalling reason, I am not completely surprised about this sentiment coming out of SoHo. Well Lola, come to downtown Brooklyn if that’s the case. You know how chic that part of BK is, and I’m pretty sure you won’t have those type of experiences there. And we will keep that bar tab runnin’.

  17. wendi muse wrote:

    man, considering sweeney is a soho-an (soho-ite? sohotian?) you’d think he would have heard of fusion cuisine by now…
    and mojitos, martinis, and cocktails go just fine with southern food thankyouverymuch :-)

  18. Black Stocking wrote:

    New York racist? As an ex-Brooklynite I can assure you that there is more than enough racism, xenophobia and just plain, willfull ignorance to go around in the five boroughs.

    I’ve never been called a ni@@er in the South; in Bensonhurst, Bay Ridge, and of course while the Green Beer crowd is parading on 5th Ave, I’ve been called that. And worse.

  19. DEAF FEMINIST PUNK!! wrote:

    I can’t stand snobby racist white people.. If they don’t like the diversity of NYC/SoHo, they should get the F out and go move to a redneck small town in the South.

  20. Ali wrote:

    As usual the sheer comedy in so many of these comments almost softens the racist blows highlighted above, almost. This Sweeney guy sounds pretty unbelievable. For the record I just checked out Lola’s menu and two words… Oyster Po’Boy. YUM!

    Oh Sweeney, open your heart, and let us stuff it with high blood pressure inducing deliciousness!

  21. The Cruel Secretary wrote:

    @ Tasha–”Distasteful to mention, eager to act out and flat out denial if confronted.”

    Damn, that is the best description I’ve heard about the mechanics of Northern racism in my life! Brilliant, friend!

  22. Slush wrote:

    I don’t think it makes it better that Lola’s is a fancy place. Yes, it undermines Sweeney’s argument to some extent, but doesn’t address the racial component. Non-fancy places are just as legitimate, so you shouldn’t have to open a swanky club rather than a diner just because you’re a POC or biracial couple.

    I don’t mean to object to folks pointing out the fact of Lola’s is fancy. That is relevant for sure, but it seems important to remember that using fanciness as a defense of the place changes the dynamics of the race-class analysis, but doesn’t necessarily make a better case for that reason. Saying the restaurant attracts wealthy people of all colors is maybe defending the racist part of Sweeney’s opposition, but not challenging his classism.

    That said, I would agree that his statements were much more racist than classist. What he said was just degrading people of color straight up. Maybe I’m imputing more classism into his quotes than is actually in the words, because that is so often part of situations like this.

  23. The Cruel Secretary wrote:

    What kills me is the totalizing nature of this particular kind of gentrification. This brand works with the premise that *no* people of color, regardless of socio-economic status (like the status of being able to afford to live and dine in SoHo and other such neighborhoods ) are acceptable in these neighborhoods, that *all* of us should be driven out and never allowed to settle or visit these areas. Period.

    Sweeney, to me, is simply the most egregious and outspoken example of this kind of racism. I bet y’all there are a bunch of others who silently agree with this man. Instead of having neighborhood alliances, these particular white folks just give a person of color the stank-eye as s/he/we walk down “their” streets….yet, they’d tell you they voted (or want to vote for) Sen. Obama in the fall or otherwise signify their liberal/progressive cred if you call them on their racism.

  24. Sherbear wrote:

    My jaw literally dropped at the “I don’t think you need a martini to go with chitlins and collard greens. What wine goes with jambalaya? ”

    Wow. Just wow. I can’t even begin to formulate a response to this.

    It reeks of wanting to create a gated community, where they can decide who can or can’t come in. If that’s what they wanted, why didn’t they just move to one of those?

  25. Kaonashi wrote:

    I’m sorry, but a place that charges 25 bucks for an damn entree isn’t going to have a lot of craziness going on inside.

  26. Manju wrote:

    I walk past that restaurant all the time wondering what “lola is soul” means. Think I’ll give it a shot now.

    interestingly, if you turn the corner and walk up west b-way just one block, you have the most rollicking bar scenes in soho. the crowd, eurotrash (hope that’s allowed here), latin americans, and fashionistas fall out onto the sidewalk sipping mohitos on a sunday afternoon. there are 3 restaurants, felix, novocento, and diva that create this sidewalk ruckus, but as far as i know no one seems to mind. but, there used to be a bar that featured a wealthy black clientele right next to diva, adding to the mayhem. but its no longer there. now i wonder why?

    community boards are a pain in the ass. nothing like a little socialism to institutionalize racism. property owners should more or less be allowed to do what they want. the people be damned.

  27. gatamala wrote:

    Tasha- that should be a slogan.

    I can’t stand snobby racist white people.. If they don’t like the diversity of NYC/SoHo, they should get the F out and go move to a redneck small town in the South.

    REGIONALISM!! :)

    see my, atlasien’s & Tasha’s comments.

    Small towns in south DOES NOT equal redneck racism. As a North Carolinian (shout out to Mary), I find that although there is tension or even distrust back home, those “rednecks” know that we are humans that get up, go to work, eat grits, whatever like they do. Those who are hardcore like the folks who won’t vote for a black man…well they don’t deny that they are racist.

    As others have pointed out SoHo really isn’t that diverse.

  28. RainaWeather wrote:

    “Oyster Po’Boy. YUM!” agreed.

    What the Hell is wrong with that guy. It may just be the way the article was edited, but it seems like he just kind of flipped out all of a sudden. Which really doesn’t help with his “I’m not a racist” argument. Just shows that he knew someone was gonna call him out on his bullshit. Once more the North proves just as racist as the South.

    What kind of person hates Jambalaya??

  29. Eva wrote:

    What’s sad is that I remember when SoHo was an ugly little neighborhood and lofts there were quite cheap. This Sweeny clown needs to shut up and read a book on the history of NYC.

  30. Steve W wrote:

    I found this from a while back….

    “Sean Sweeney, director of the Soho Alliance, said the S.L.A. presented circular reasoning, at best, for granting the license. Justice Shafer, in her decision, stated that the reasons given by the S.L.A. did not warrant an exemption to the 500-foot rule, which states that the S.L.A. cannot issue liquor licenses if there are already three or more establishments with liquor licenses within a 500-foot radius, unless doing so is found to be “in the public interest.” There are 35 establishments already serving liquor within 500 feet of Lola.”

    http://www.thevillager.com/villager_176/lolanowhasaliquorlicense.html

    Did Sean get his panties in a twist over the other 32? or were they white-owned?

  31. Chris wrote:

    Funny, I didn’t see chitlins or jambalaya on the menu. Collard greens are though.

    Also, chitlins and jambalaya come from two different styles of cuisine.

    Oh, wait, nevermind… they’re from two traditionally black styles of cuisine. Fair enough to lump them together. Black food is black food, right? And, obviously, cocktails and wine don’t pair together with black food at all!

    Gimme a break. That comment alone proves his motives have racist under(over?)tones. If he can’t even take 5 minutes to scour the menu before opening his mouth it shows he’s dismissing the restaurant before even knowing what it’s about other than attracting the “wrong crowd” with their cuisine.

    And yes, having lived in the south for a half decade (mostly in South Carolina), I can definitely say it’s possible to appreciate some ribs and collard greens with a nice glass of wine or a martini… although I’d prefer a beer myself.

  32. Petite Maoiste wrote:

    does not surprise me, sadly

  33. Joanna wrote:

    @Slush:
    The reason I pointed out that Lola is expensive is that it makes Sweeney’s stance all the more surprising. If this were more of a class issue, I wouldn’t be very surprised if he had such a reaction, but I would still see it as a problem, for sure!

  34. jan wrote:

    What? It’s SoHo! Anyone who can afford to go there for diner isn’t the “wrong crowd” I am appalled that such see-through racist rhetoric is even being attempted. I mean, do they think they’re being subtle or something?

  35. sfsinger wrote:

    Tasha – the last line of your comment just described Clinton to a tee!

  36. A. wrote:

    Yay, New York!

    We can gentrify the hoods, but we can still be just as racist as ever.

    People kill me.

  37. bdsista wrote:

    Oh, I will have to go next week now when I go to Ailey for my Sharqui master class! Real low country southern food is shimp and grits! and Sweet tea.

  38. bdsista wrote:

    The comment was f**ked up tho! Hmm, wonder if B Smith and Georgia Browns here in DC consider themselves having the wrong kind of people. Like…. congresspersons, white house staffers?

  39. sisterpopcorn wrote:

    I’m a former NY’er and a former patron of Lola’s when it was a bit further uptown. Yes Lola always had a mixed crowd. It was known for live music and soulful cooking and pretty black women. In answer to the arguments of Sweeney, yes lots of black people went there. In his eyes that’s enough to qualify it as attracting the wrong crowd. That crowd usually consisted of professionals and I will agree that there are “wrong types” of everything, but we’re not talking about gun-toting thugs here. (Even I, black people, make choices based on what types of people, even black people, patronize a place and I can’t be too p.c. when it comes to my safety and comfort.) So many of my favorite nightspots got crossed off my list the first time Lil’ Big Daddy _____ and his crew rolled up in their Escalade and fired a shot. But we’re not talking about that here, as Sweeney might like us to think.

    Soho is the home of artists, usually white, and European tourists and other moneyed types on shopping sprees. Also models, random celebs, and the banker boys. Sweeney doesn’t want a place that says, “Hey black people this is for you. Come and drink.” Then he’s thinking they’re gonna eat, and drink THEN steal our cars, break into our homes, rape our women.

    Soho is one of my old stomping grounds. Yup Manju that corner of W.Broadway and Grand is loud and full of Eurotrash. Drive by there on Sunday afternoons and the brunch crowd is literally in the streets. Yes they are white and that’s acceptable for Soho. You can hear Italian, French and Spanish (European and upscale Argentinian Spanish) spoken far more than English, and you know that’s just so Soho Sweeney.

    I think that because Lola is “soul” the racists fear that blacks will come, and they don’t care about the income of the average patron or if the collard greens are topped with a braised rare organic premature baby lamb arm and caviar in a persimmon reisling reduction and that it cost 25$! THERE WILL BE A REGULAR FLOW OF BLACK PEOPLE IN SOHO!

    I know Whoopie Goldberg is a resident of Soho and she’s been vocal in the past about neighborhood issues. I just wondered if she’d been vocal lately on this. I’m out of the loop these days. Anyway I watched Lola sit there waiting to open forever so I’m happy to hear that some progress has been made and I hope that they can beat this Sweeney and move on.

  40. Katie wrote:

    jan – your comment implies that poor people are the “wrong crowd.”

  41. dalia wrote:

    “I am not racist. [Gayle Patrick-Odeen] is from Barbados. She’s a British subject; she’s not African-American. She didn’t suffer Jim Crow, Reconstruction, lynching. . . . For her to exploit the true sufferings of African-Americans is disgraceful,”

    as if bajans have no clue as to what it feels like to suffer these injustices? um, what? like barbados wasn’t built on slave labour? as if bajans know nothing of racial dissension?

    um, what?

  42. Chris Chambers wrote:

    This is a joke, right? They’re worried about bourgies/buppies coming to Soho? Not Soujah Boy afficiandos, or sign carrying R Kelly supporters or folk out on parole–people of color who’s latest bone of contention is whether Spike Lee was right to attack Clint Eastwood…and whether they should sell the SUV and buy a Prius? That would certainly prompt a spike heroin sales, ho-ing, screaming and squawking on the pavement?
    I’m not a naive moron, but is there something else or underlying going on here ?

  43. red wrote:

    it would increase crime because Lola featured rhythm-and-blues music

    that’s got to be the best line.

    *picks up pieces of brain from floor*

  44. deb wrote:

    “I don’t think you need a martini to go with chitlins and collard greens. What wine goes with jambalaya?

    Lola could resolve the matter immediately if they just serve purple kool-aid.
    I’m surprised Sweeney didn’t suggest it. :rolleyes:

  45. Latoya Peterson wrote:

    @Deb –

    Hmm, a purple kool-aid martini is an idea I can get behind…

    ;-)

  46. Michael Dunn wrote:

    The proper accompaniment to jambalaya is a Dixie longneck, of course, now that Jax is gone. Beer is probably better with chitlins and collards too, but a full-bodied red should go with any of them (assuming you’re using pepper vinegar on the collards of course). These Yankee New Yorkers don’t know much, do they?

  47. Fina wrote:

    I would recommend a light beer for both but if you need to have wine; white wine goes well with Chitlins and Collard Greens. Jambalaya would go well with a red wine. By the way Yankees, soul food is Southern food. Blacks and Whites in dixie love collard greens. Hummm.

  48. random wrote:

    If you knew Sean Sweeney, you wouldn’t be surprised. He’s a nut case who is against _everything_ and has no scruples about saying outrageous lies/slander/bile to get his way. He lives in a gorgeous Soho loft and wants to pretend that it’s still the ’70s or ’80s, which pretty much means that he doesn’t want anyone else in the neighborhood.

    This doesn’t make his racist remarks and less offensive, but perhaps it makes some people feel better to know that these are not the words of a thinking person.

  49. AC wrote:

    “I am not racist. [Gayle Patrick-Odeen] is from Barbados. She’s a British subject; she’s not African-American. She didn’t suffer Jim Crow, Reconstruction, lynching. . . . For her to exploit the true sufferings of African-Americans is disgraceful,”

    Uhm, Barbados gained independence from the British Empire in 1967. So Mrs. Patric-Odeen is not a British subject she’s either Bajan or, if she’s naturalized, she’s American. And what’s with this line of thought you have to have actual, bona fide African-American heritage to suffer from racism? Really – people look at my black self and they can tell whether my ancestors suffered thru enslavement here in this country or elsewhere?

    And for the record I prefer a nice Gewurztraminer with my greens – really compliments the hamhock.

  50. Fiqah wrote:

    Lord have mercy. The “Black = poor/criminal/lowest common denominator” racial narrative rears its ugly head once again. I stopped hanging out in SoHo in 2000, when gentrification shifted into full swing, but I agree with posters above that the whole racist and classist “undesireable elements” argument is a citywide problem. Backlash over Pride (!) events from newer residents in the Village echo these sentiments as well. Sad. On a lighter note: jambalaya? Petite syrah! :)

  51. Erica B. wrote:

    Well, actually I’ve found it easier to choke down my collard greens if I’m totally liquored up… although that’s the only part of Southern cooking that I have never managed to warm to.

    Anybody who thinks insanely good soul food can’t be eaten with insanely good wine is just an idiot looking for an excuse to be racist. Jambalaya and a fine red are very well-matched.

  52. Jay gems wrote:

    The restaurant closed because of the financial toll this battle took. I heard that the owners are now trying to relocate. We should all wish them well and try to help where we can. They will need it.