How Ramen Changed My World (and Yours)

by guest contributor Matt Gross, originally published at Tripmaster Monkey

ramen momofuku andoI remember well the moment when I began to understand the awesome power of ramen. It was during college, and I was sharing a dim dorm room with Steve C. Liu, a towering Trekkie whom everyone called “The Admiral.” Steve was a bit weird (I’m thinking of his obsession with Disney heroines), but he was blessed with a Taiwanese mother who regularly delivered him an endless supply of Asian snacks: odd concoctions of dried tofu, vast Tupperware containers of sticky rice, and stack upon stack of dried ramen.

One night, Steve invited me to join him. He boiled some water, dumped dry noodles in a pair of bowls and a few minutes later we were slurping up gorgeously black-pepper-flavored ramen. I think the brand name was, believe it or not, Kung Fu.

From that point on, my life was changed. I stocked up on ramen at nearby Asian grocery stores, buying spicy kimchi ramen from the Koreans and vacuum-packed udon from the Japanese. I learned to crack an egg into the still-bubbling liquid, to shred scallions into the mix, to sprinkle on toasted sesame seeds. I bought bowls specifically designed to hold noodles, and I watched the movie “Tampopo,” a Japanese comedy about the wacky world of noodle-makers, again and again. (My girlfriend eventually named her pet kitten Tampopo.)

My story, of course, is far from unique. You, too, probably first encountered ramen in college, where it kept your belly full for as little as 25 cents a meal. You’ve probably added all sorts of condiments to a basic bowl of broth. But on the occasion of the death of Momofuku Ando, the founder of Nissin and inventor of instant noodles, it’s worth taking a look at his creation’s far-reaching cultural influence.

First, a quick history (culled from Ando’s obits): In 1958, the nearly broke Ando observed that fried noodles reabsorbed liquid very easily, and began experimenting with flash-frying techniques. Soon, he had Chikin Ramen—which sold for six times the price of fresh ramen! The product’s popularity quickly brought the cost down, and soon instant ramen was fulfilling Ando’s greatest wish: “Peace will come to the world when the people have enough to eat.” (Okay, maybe not quite.)

In the 1970s, ramen arrived in the U.S., and by the next decade became shorthand for the impoverished-student experience. Def Leppard released a song called “Pour Some Sugar on Me” that heard-of-hearing stoners misunderstood as “Pour Some Shook-up Ramen.” Cathay Pacific began serving Cup Noodle on long-haul flights. Technology progressed, too: I recently found a tiny, magically hinged plastic spork in a packet of instant pho.

And perhaps most surprising of all, instant ramen paved the way for the hifalutin noodle bars that are the biggest trend in New York dining today (the most popular is, fittingly, named Momofuku). From hunger-killing substitute to gourmet delight—that’s quite a journey in 50 years.

But this week, forgo the fancy, get on down to your local Asian grocery and pick up some tom yum noodles, miso-flavored ramen, or even just plain old chicken Cup Noodles. As the New York Times wrote, “They attain a state of grace through a marriage with nothing but hot water,” so break out the kettle and prepare to slurp-slurp-slurp your way to heaven—where you will, without a doubt, find one very happy Mr. Momofuku Ando.

Comments

  1. e wrote:

    Every college kid knows ramen. Its single handedly saving our (very tight poor student) budget with Hot and Spicy Shrimp cup o’noodles for lunch instead of fast food.

  2. Rob wrote:

    I’m not sure if it’s true but the news agencies in Taiwan once did a scientific study on the effects of instant noodles.

    The theory was that these noodles hold so much preservatives and salt that it prohibits the body from decomposing correctly. Their suspicions were confirmed when they dug up the body of someone that ate these noodles nonstop for over 25 years and his body was very well preserved.

    Now, I’m not sure if it is just an urban legend but it’s interesting regardless. You can get a cup of that stuff for 25 cents each at our local Safeway.

  3. rachel wrote:

    I always thought that the ramen shop Momofuku was named after Ando, but according to them (on this npr piece:
    http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=6749051)
    it is just a concidence!

  4. Lyonside wrote:

    e: I too have survived on Ramen and it’s still a guilty pleasure, but I think pre-fried preserved noodles to which you just reconstitute w/ water is the DEFINITION of fast food ;)

  5. gatamala wrote:

    I tried eating Ramen w/ ebi tempura in Japan local-style, but I couldn’t put up w/ 2nd & 3rd degree blisters on my lips and tongue. I just sat there for about 10 minutes looking like a total gaijin.

    Rob - you’re not off base actually the amount of preseratives we eat (based on American stiffs) preserves our corpses longer than those of the turn of the 20th century. We really are what we eat.

  6. gatamala wrote:

    …I forgot about “Noodles for Men”. I don’t know WHY they were for men…testosterone or androgen flavored perhaps??

  7. Jay wrote:

    I forgot about “Noodles for Men”. I don’t know WHY they were for men…testosterone or androgen flavored perhaps??

    Well, I know Pocky for Men is made with bitter chocolate. Maybe it’s extra spicy or something.

  8. vandia wrote:

    Right now( while I am punching the keyboard), if I turn some 45 degrees to the left I would be looking( I am looking actually) at a big box of Ramen noodle.
    My fiance and I got the package at an unbelievably low price that we decided to take the whole carton. Now we are not sure what to do with it and it is sitting in the living room-no space for it in storage. Well I will help myself to some Ramen just now! Good night!

  9. kim wrote:

    Ramen.

    Kinda sounds like Amen, doesn’t it? No matter how you pronounce the latter, the former still comes out right in the end.

    Is it all over my face? :)

Post a Comment

Your email is never published nor shared.